Shiki no Yado Michinokuan ("Michinokuan") is a renowned ryokan located in Shiroishi, Miyagi Prefecture. We chose to stay here due to its proximity to Shiroishi Castle - we had an early morning appointment for a private tour and lecture on the Castle and its history. Compared to other top ryokans in the Tohoku region (the north east area of the main island of Honshu), it's a pretty good value, too.
Established in 1985, this 9-room ryokan is a classic property in that both dinner and breakfast are served in one's own room, which we always seek out. Michinokuan has 3 Suites, each offering in-room Onsen (the other 6 do not; guests staying in them will have to settle for visiting the communal, gender-segregated Onsen.) Given our last-minute booking, the top Suite (the 110m² Akebono, which was fully renovated 3 months ago) was already taken, so we had to settle for the next rung down - Yui Suite Shinonome, which was last renovated 3 years ago.
Upon arrival, we were thrilled to be in a ryokan that's surrounded by mountains and forests, with zero man-made objects in sight - our heart rate immediately was reduced, and we looked forward to soaking in the Onsen prior to dinner. There is a small lawn area at the rear of the ryokan (all of the rooms face it), and are surrounded by beautiful flowers - when the Hydrangeas are in full bloom, I am told it's a stunning sight to behold. While the exterior architecture is traditional, the interior was contemporary Japanese. It's simple, unpretentious and has muted tones but has just enough splash of style (such as the wooden ceiling beams, paper lantern ceiling lights, flower/plant arrangements, tasteful ambient lighting on the floor and modern art pieces) to add some good flavor.
Our Suite was more of a Junior Suite in layout in that the bedroom was not completely segregated from the rest of the room. Aside from that, there was plenty of space to stretch out and relax. There's a Western-style living room and dining area (with Western tables and chairs - this is where meals are served) with a fireplace and large, wall-mounted television, and a small tatami-floored Japanese-style sitting area. The Onsen is indoors, although the large glass window can be opened to allow a semi-open-air effect. A few nits to pick include the somewhat cheap amenities (especially the toiletries), and the minibar having nothing in it but a few bottles of water.... no beer, no soda, no juice, no tea. Speaking of which, the fridge outside the communal onsen contains drinks but it's not free (you fill out a form, similar to laundry service at hotels, then they charge you at check-out.) This even includes things like milk and yogurt; these should really be complimentary.
Thankfully, they didn't appear to skimp on the quality and quantity of their kaiseki cuisine. The food was not terribly unique or creative, but they put great effort in offering dishes featuring local/seasonal ingredients, and what they served up was delectable. Highlights included the Green Soybean (Fava Bean) Tofu with Dashi and Soy Sauce Jelly on top, the grilled Sendai Kuroge Wagyu steak, and a local noodle soup dish called Umen, which is similar to Somen but has shorter and thicker noodles that is made without using any oil - they were all excellent. Breakfast was slightly less memorable; it was standard Japanese, and while everything was good, nothing really stood out.
This ryokan doesn't scream "opulent luxury", but is a charming, comfortable and elegantly staffed property with very nice views from all angles. If we were to return to the area in the future, we wouldn't hesitate to make a repeat visit to Shiki no Yado Michinokuan, as long as we are able to book one of the Suites (ideally Akebono.)
